If your customers are asking for 'clean, reef-friendly ' SPF that actually performs, you're in the right place. In this guide, I'll show you how to formulate modern mineral sunscreens with antioxidant boosts, step by step. This practical approach will help you launch your products faster and with fewer reformulations, saving you time and resources.
The winning OEM formula today is one that meets US/EU/Asia claims. It pairs non-nano zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide with an innovative antioxidant system, optimized dispersion, and region-specific testing (SPF, UVA, water resistance). This formula is not just a theory; it's proven with ISO testing and compliant labeling, making it relevant and reliable for your market.
We'll unpack the mineral filters that really move the needle, the antioxidants that add measurable protection, exactly how we build stable, elegant textures, and the tests and claims you'll need for US, EU, Australia, and beyond. I'll also share MOQ and packaging tips from our projects at Amarrie.
What "organic" really means in sun care (and what it doesn't).
Let's clear up the biggest confusion first. In sunscreen marketing, "organic" often means a product aligned with natural/organic standards and high naturalorigin content — not "organic filters" in the chemistry sense. In fact, mineral UV filters are inorganic by definition. If you're calculating natural or organic content for certifications and buyer decks, ISO 16128 gives a common language and indices for natural, natural-origin, organic, and organic-origin content across ingredients and the finished formula. This matters when you're balancing naturally derived emollients with performance polymers or coated mineral dispersions. See ISO 16128-1 and -2 for definitions and calculation methods. (iso.org, standards.iteh.ai)
The mineral UV filters, demystified
- Zinc oxide (ZnO): the UVA1 workhorse. If your brief says "broad spectrum with real UVA protection," zinc oxide is your backbone. Microfine zinc oxide covers UVA1 (340–400 nm) and is highly photostable, playing nicely with other filters. That wide-spectrum reach is why we lean on zinc when customers prioritize anti-photoaging claims. (ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Titanium dioxide (TiO2): UVB and UVA2, with a caveat, TiO2 is excellent in UVB and UVA2 (315–340 nm), helps you hit SPF efficiently, and contributes to water resistance — but it doesn't cover UVA1 like zinc. That's why many OEM briefs pair TiO2 for SPF with ZnO for UVA depth. Coatings (silica, alumina, triethoxycaprylylsilane) help control photoactivity and feel. (ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Non-nano vs. nano and labeling. For EU/EAA markets, any nanomaterial in cosmetics must be declared with "[nano]" after the INCI name. Responsible persons also have notification duties on CPNP, and certain nano UV filters (including ZnO and TiO2) are specifically authorized after SCCS review. If your brand promises "non-nano," align your specifications and COAs with local definitions and label accordingly. (eur-lex.europa.eu, single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu)
- "Reef-safe" is not a regulated claim. Destination markets like Hawaii restrict specific organic UV filters (oxybenzone, octinoxate) to protect marine ecosystems. Mineral filters are generally preferred by local authorities and marine programs — but note that "reef-safe" isn't a legally defined term and guidance varies. Build claims around exactly which filters you use and what you exclude. (khon2.com, nps.gov, oceanservice.noaa.gov)
Why pair minerals with antioxidants?
The science of real-world protection. Even the best UV filters don't stop all reactive oxygen species (ROS). That's where antioxidants come in — they help neutralize ROS, reduce photo-inflammation, and can improve visible outcomes like tone and texture. This enhancement of visible outcomes is a testament to the power of antioxidants in your formulations, promising exciting results for your customers.
- C + E + Ferulic: the classic synergy. A landmark study showed that adding 0.5% ferulic acid to a 15% L-ascorbic acid + 1% αtocopherol solution improved stability and doubled photoprotection (from ~4× to ~8×) under solar-simulated UV. We've applied this logic inside mineral SPFs: use oilsoluble and water-soluble antioxidants across phases, and protect them with chelators and oxygenbarrier packaging. (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Niacinamide (vitamin B3): immune support and barrier benefits. Topical nicotinamide has been shown to prevent UVinduced immunosuppression in humans — a pathway not fully addressed by SPF alone — and supports DNA repair and barrier function. It's an excellent dailywear addition in mineral SPFs for sensitive and hyperpigmentationprone skin. (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov, pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Botanical polyphenols, carotenoids, and co-antioxidants, Greentea catechins, resveratrol, and rosemary diterpenes can complement the core system. In practice, we keep the total antioxidant load sensitive to avoid instability, and we separate actives by phase and pH tolerance. When in doubt, simple systems (e.g., C derivative + E + ferulic or niacinamide + ubiquinone) outperform a crowded INCI.
Your OEM formulation blueprint: from brief to bench to batch. Here's the exact framework we use with wholesale clients, from indie lines to multi-SKU salon retailers.

1. Nail the brief
- Region and claims: Are you going for US OTC-style labels, EU cosmetic claims, TGA (Australia), or multiregion? The answer dictates allowable actives, testing, and onpack language. For example, in the US, you need the FDA "Broad Spectrum" test (critical wavelength ≥370 nm) to make skin-cancer/early aging reduction claims with SPF 15+. In the EU, UVAPF should be ≥1/3 of labeled SPF with a critical wavelength ≥370 nm. (fda.gov)
- Format: Lotion, fluid, stick, balm, spray? Mineral dispersions favor creams, sticks, and balms; ultrafluid serums are possible but require careful rheology.
- Consumer priorities: "No white cast," "nonnano," "reef-friendly," fragrance-free, vegan, or certified organic? Lock these early.
2. Choose your UV filter strategy
- Singlefilter approach: HighZnO (e.g., 15–25%) for daily defense with strong UVA1 coverage. Good for sensitive skin, baby lines, and tinted ranges. Validate with ISO/UVA testing. (iso.org)
- Dualfilter approach: Blend TiO2 + ZnO to hit SPF efficiently while maintaining UVA depth. Select coated grades with proven dispersion and low photoactivity. (ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Tinting to defeat white cast: A small percentage of iron oxides neutralizes white cast and adds visiblelight protection (key for melasmaprone users). Pair with film formers for even laydown.
3. Build the antioxidant system
- Oil phase: α-Tocopherol (and/or tocopheryl acetate), ubiquinone, silymarin, or carotenoids. Protect with oxygen scavengers and keep heat exposure low.
- Water phase: 3-5% niacinamide plays well with most emulsions; consider stable vitamin C derivatives if you can support the pH and chelation; add ferulic acid if the system allows. Evidence supports C+E+ferulic synergy and nicotinamide's immune benefits. (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Chelation and packaging: Use EDTA or GLDA; spec oxygen-barrier tubes or airless pumps to slow oxidation.
4. Dispersion, rheology, and texture
- Start with high-quality predispersions or bead-mill your own to a tight particle size distribution. Check with a Hegman gauge for consistency.
- Emulsifier system: For "organic leaning" briefs, sugar-based emulsifiers and natural esters (e.g., coco-caprylate, isoamyl laurate, hemisqualane) deliver glide without heavy silicones.
- Film formers: For water resistance, pair naturals (e.g., pullulan, algae polymers) with compatible synthetic film formers if your standard allows. Confirm feel postimmersion with panel testing.
5. Stability and preservative strategy
- Minerals can destabilize preservatives and oxidize antioxidants. Buffer pH (often 6–7 for niacinamide), use broad-spectrum systems compatible with clays/minerals, and run elevatedtemp/FT cycles.
- Always do PET/challenge testing before scale-up.
6. Screening tests before you book the big ones
- In vitro UVA curve and critical wavelength screening help you iterate fast before in vivo. For EU/EAA claims, ISO 24443 invitro UVA characterization is standard, with computations for UVAPF and critical wavelength. For US Broad Spectrum, the FDA method relies on the critical wavelength test ≥370 nm. (iso.org, fda.gov)
- Panel wear tests on multiple skin tones will tell you more about white cast than any lab metric.
Your testing roadmap (and how to budget for it)
- SPF determination: ISO 24444:2019 is the gold standard in vivo SPF test globally (also referenced in water-resistance methods). Plan timelines and subject panels accordingly. (iso.org)
- UVA protection: Use ISO 24443:2021 in vitro to calculate UVAPF and critical wavelength, and check the EU's 1/3 UVA rule. For the US "Broad Spectrum" label, meet the critical wavelength ≥370 nm using the FDA method. (iso.org, fda.gov)
- Water resistance: To claim "water-resistant 40/80 minutes," pair ISO 16217 (immersion procedure) with ISO 18861 (percentage of water resistance). Yes, this adds time and budget — but it's the cleanest route to confident claims across markets. (iso.org)
- Packaging compatibility: Minerals can settle, and tint can ring. Run hot/cold, free-fall, and transport simulations with final artworked packs.
Regulatory quick-map for the big markets
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United States
- Category: OTC drug. To claim "Broad Spectrum," your invitro critical wavelength must be ≥370 nm; only Broad Spectrum SPF 15+ can claim to reduce skin cancer/early aging. "Waterproof," "sweatproof," and "sunblock" are prohibited; water resistance claims must specify 40 or 80 minutes. The current "deemed final order" largely keeps status quo labeling/effectiveness requirements, while a proposed order emphasizes UVA performance and tentatively finds only ZnO and TiO2 GRASE based on currently sufficient data. (fda.gov)
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European Union/EEA
- Category: Cosmetics. UVA protection should be at least onethird of SPF, and the critical wavelength should be ≥370 nm; avoid absolute claims like "sunblock" and include usage warnings. Nanomaterials must be labeled with "[nano]" in the ingredient list and notified via CPNP; certain nano UV filters (ZnO, TiO2) are authorized following SCCS opinions. (eur-lex.europa.eu, single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu)
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Australia
- Primary sunscreens are therapeutic goods (TGA). Expect stringent SPF/UVA/water-resistance requirements and labeling rules; plan timelines accordingly. (Your test suite from ISO 24444/24443/16217/18861 sets you up well for discussions with your TGA partner lab.)
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Reef-sensitive destinations
- Hawaii and certain municipalities restrict oxybenzone and octinoxate; mineralonly actives are the safest route for retail in those locations. Be precise with claims and use responsible environmental language. (khon2.com)
Formulation examples (for discussion with your formulator)
- Daily mineral moisturizer SPF 30, fragrance-free
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- UV filters: 18–20% ZnO (coated, non-nano spec)
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- Antioxidants: 3–5% niacinamide + 0.5% tocopherol; optional ferulic derivative
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- Emollients: CCT, squalane/hemisqualane, coco-caprylate
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- Texture: Light O/W emulsion, silicone-free, airless pump
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- Notes: Screen in vitro for critical wavelength ≥370 nm; target EU UVA-PF ≥ 10 for SPF 30. (iso.org)
- Sport stick SPF 50, water-resistant 80 min
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- UV filters: ZnO + TiO2 in wax/oil matrix
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- Film formers: Water-resistant naturals + optimized polymer blend
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- Antioxidants: αtocopherol + ubiquinone; optional rosemary extract for rancidity control
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- Notes: Validate per ISO 16217 and ISO 18861; plan consumer wear tests for drag and glide. (iso.org)
Scale-up realities most brands underestimate
- White cast isn't solved until your first tinted batch. In the lab, a base can look perfect — then rinse out on darker skin tones under daylight. On tinted SKUs, lock iron oxide percentages with at least three undertone variants and test on a diverse panel.
- Blender choice matters more than you think. Mineral dispersions are mechanical. The wrong impeller, wrong shear, or wrong add-order can create hard-to-recover batch-to-batch variability. Write exact work instructions at the pilot.
- Packaging is part of your formula. Antioxidantrich systems deserve oxygenbarrier packs; sticks need low-sweat molds; pumps must be compatible with high-solids emulsions. We've seen perfectly tested formulas oxidize in months when packed in airpermeable tubes.
Environmental and education positioning (without the greenwashing). Your customers ask about "reef-safe." The honest approach:
- Specify "mineral-only actives: zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide," acknowledge that guidance evolves, and highlight clothing/UPF and shade as first-line protection.
- Cite local rules where you sell (e.g., Hawaii's Act 104, effective Jan 1, 2021) and explain your ingredient choices plainly. Use educational content linking to NOAA/NPS resources rather than absolute claims. (khon2.com, oceanservice.noaa.gov, nps.gov)
How we handle OEM/ODM at Amarrie (what to expect)

- Low-stress onboarding. Share your target markets, claims, and brand values. We'll suggest starting SKUs and formats, plus realistic timelines for ISO testing. Our team has 20+ years in skincare R&D and works with premium rawmaterial partners (BASF, DSM, SEPPIC, etc.).
- Flexible MOQs and fast pilots. Typical MOQs for private label range from 1,000–5,000 units, depending on customization and packaging. We can start small to test the market, then scale. Samples ship fast, and bulk orders move within tight lead times with DHL.
- Quality without compromise. Every batch goes through five quality checks; packaging uses robust cartons and multi-layer corrugate to minimize transit damage. Expect less than 0.001% defect rate and a dedicated aftersales team online 24/7.
- Marketing support included. We provide videos, images, and product copy you can customize for your storefronts and social channels — saving you thousands on content production while you validate the SKU.
Regulatory and claim-proofing checklist. Use this as your internal gate before you greenlight production:
- Label review
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- US: Broad Spectrum only if critical wavelength ≥370 nm; "waterresistant 40/80 min" only if tested; remove "waterproof/sunblock." (fda.gov)
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- EU: UVA-PF ≥ 1/3 of SPF, critical wavelength ≥370 nm; add usage warnings; [nano] labeling where applicable. (eur-lex.europa.eu)
- Test dossier
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- ISO 24444 report (SPF), ISO 24443 (UVA in vitro), water resistance (ISO 16217 + 18861 when claimed). (iso.org)
- Evidence binder (for your sales team)
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- Onepager explaining minerals vs. chemicals and why you chose minerals.
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- PlainEnglish summary of your antioxidant system with 1–2 literature references (e.g., C+E+ferulic; niacinamide). (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov)
- Environmental stance
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- State your actives and exclusions; reference local laws and point to NOAA/NPS education pages for travelers. (oceanservice.noaa.gov, nps.gov)
Behind-the-scenes: a quick story.
A boutique spa brand in Australia asked us for a "silicone-free, mineral, zero white cast, 80minute water-resistant" sunscreen with niacinamide. We prototyped three routes: high-ZnO fluid, ZnO/TiO2 cream, and a stick. The fluid looked great in the lab, but flashed white under midday sun on deeper skin tones. The stick passed water resistance but dragged a little. The sleeper hit? A mid-weight cream with 18% ZnO + iron-oxide tint + 4% niacinamide + a C-derivative in the water phase. It cleared ISO waterresistance and UVA targets, and our salons finally had a face-friendly SPF that their clients actually loved wearing. The first 2,000-unit run sold out in six weeks — and we scaled to 10,000 without changing the feel by locking down the dispersion work.
Your next steps with us
- Share your region(s), target SPF and claims, and preferred format.
- We'll recommend a mineral/antioxidant approach, test plan, and packaging options.
- Start with a pilot MOQ to validate demand, then scale with confidence. Our team is set up to help you build the sales story as well as the formula.
Conclusion
Mineral filters give you the backbone; antioxidants make your SPF smarter in the real world. When you match that combo with disciplined dispersion, thoughtful packaging, and the right ISO/FDA/EU tests, you get a sunscreen that's elegant, defensible — and a repeat-purchase machine.
If you're curious how to bring this kind of sunscreen into your own line — tinted sticks, daily fluids, or sport creams — just drop us a message. We'll map your claims, build your bench plan, and turn it into a bestseller you're proud to put your brand on.
